Tartan has been part of Scotland’s heritage for centuries but where did tartan originate? The earliest known examples of tartan in Scotland – fabric fragments found during archaeological excavations – date from the 3rd or 4th century. However, it wasn’t until the late medieval period that tartan began to take on its cultural significance in Scotland. The word “tartan” likely derives from the French word “tiretain,” meaning woven cloth, and it referred to any patterned fabric with alternating bands of colour.
District Tartans
Where did tartan originate?
The different tartans grew out of the different patterns used by local weavers. In each area or community, there would be a weaver who typically produced the same tartan for the people nearby. This tartan eventually became what we now call district tartan – tartan that is associated with a specific geographical region, area, or community rather than a particular family or clan. In the past, local weavers produced tartans using dyes derived from plants and other natural resources in their immediate surroundings. As a result, the tartan patterns and colours would often reflect the local environment. Over time, these designs became linked with the area itself, and the people living there would adopt them as their own.
Today, district tartans are still worn to signify a connection to a particular region of Scotland, whether by residents or those with ancestral ties to the area. Examples include the “Edinburgh Tartan” or the “Isle of Skye Tartan.”
Tartan as a Symbol of Clan Identity
Over time, as clan-based social structures became prominent in the Scottish Highlands, people started associating certain tartans with specific clans. This wasn’t an official practice but rather a result of close-knit communities, often bound by blood or loyalty, living together and using the same weaver. As clans began to take pride in their identity, specific tartan patterns gradually became linked to them. By the 16th century tartan had become widely associated with the Scottish Highlands and the various clans that lived there.
Tartan and the Highlands
Tartan had much more significance in the Highlands of Scotland than just decoration. Each Scottish clan – a group of families or kin linked by ancestry or loyalty – developed their own distinct tartan pattern. This was a practical means of identifying other members of the clan in a rugged, often isolated, landscape where clan rivalries were fierce. Clan chiefs and their followers would wear their family tartan as a mark of loyalty, and certain patterns were passed down through generations.
Tartan Becomes a Political Symbol
Where did tartan originate?
Tartan took on even greater significance during the Jacobite Risings of the 18th century when supporters of the exiled Stuart monarchy rallied under the banner of their clan tartans. The Jacobites were Scottish supporters of the exiled Stuart monarchy, and many Highland clans rallied to the cause, wearing their clan tartans as a sign of allegiance. The Jacobite army, led by Charles Edward Stuart (also known as Bonnie Prince Charlie), was defeated at the Battle of Culloden in 1746. The aftermath of the battle had profound consequences for the Highlands and the tartan industry.
The Act of Proscription
In 1746, the British Government tried to dismantle the power of the clans by stripping them of their cultural symbols, including tartan. The Act of Proscription made it illegal for Highlanders to wear tartan or any form of traditional Highland dress. Anyone found to have broken this law could be fined, imprisoned, or even forcibly transported. Wearing tartan was outlawed for nearly four decades before the Act was repealed.
The Tartan Revival
Despite the ban, tartan remained a powerful symbol of Scottish identity. It was not until the repeal of the Act of Proscription that tartan could be worn freely again. Following the lifting of the ban In 1782, there was a revival of interest in Highland traditions and tartan. This was particularly fuelled by the romanticism surrounding Highland culture, partly popularised by figures like Sir Walter Scott. Specific tartans also became more closely identified with specific clans during this period.
Tartan Restored
The full revival of tartan gathered pace in the early 19th century when Scotland experienced a cultural renaissance (often called The Tartan Revival) following the visit of King George IV in 1822. This was the first visit by a reigning British monarch to Scotland in nearly two centuries.
The event was orchestrated by Sir Walter Scott, the famous Scottish novelist and historian who championed Scottish culture. It was a great honour to be invited and Scott insisted that all attendees dress in full Highland attire, including tartan kilts and plaids. This royal endorsement of tartan helped elevate its status from a symbol of rebellion to one of pride and national identity.
Clan Tartans Formalised
The process of formalising clan tartans also got underway in the 19th century. Interest in clan heritage surged, and the notion of each clan having its own distinct tartan became widely accepted. The Scottish elite, particularly Highland chiefs, began to adopt specific tartans for their clans, and families began to reclaim or invent their clan tartans. Books and collections of tartan patterns played a role in codifying these tartans. Many of the tartans we know today were either formalised or even designed during this period.
The Sobieski Stuarts, authors of Vestiarium Scoticum (1842), published a controversial catalogue of clan tartans, many of which were likely to have been based on romanticised interpretations rather than historical designs. In spite of this the renewed demand for tartan led to the growth of the tartan weaving industry.
The Industrialisation of Tartan Weaving
As tartan became a symbol of Scottish pride, demand grew beyond the Highlands and, eventually, the world. The 19th century also saw the rise of the Industrial Revolution, which transformed the production of textiles, including tartan. Before industrialisation, tartan was woven by hand on a loom, often with locally sourced natural dyes. The process was labour-intensive and the patterns and colours could vary from region to region.
With the advent of mechanised looms and synthetic dyes, the production of tartan became faster and more consistent. Factories sprung up in the Scottish Lowlands, particularly in towns like Paisley and Glasgow, where skilled weavers could produce tartan on a much larger scale. This marked the beginning of tartan’s transition from a traditional Highland craft to a commercial product.
The Decline of the Tartan Industry
Despite its global popularity, the tartan industry faced significant challenges in the mid-20th century. Industrialisation had made tartan accessible, but it also led to overproduction, and the market became flooded with cheap, low-quality tartan products.This, combined with a general decline in traditional craftsmanship, put pressure on Scotland’s tartan mills, and many of the smaller, family-owned weavers were forced to close.
Scottish Register of Tartans
Following the referendum in 1997, Scotland established its own Parliament in 1999. In 2008, in an effort to protect and preserve the heritage of tartan production, the Scottish Government set up the Scottish Register of Tartans. The Register is a formal database where any new tartan designs must be registered. The initiative has helped to regulate and protect the tartan industry. Today, over 3,000 tartans are registered, added to as new patterns being designed for families, businesses, and organisations around the world.
Famous Tartans
Scotland now has over 3,000 registered tartans, each with its own unique history. We take a look at some of the most famous.
Royal Tartans
Royal Stewart Tartan
One of the most recognisable tartans, the Royal Stewart tartan is associated with the British Royal Family, particularly the Royal House of Stewart. Worn by members of the British royal family, it has become a symbol of Scottish heritage across the world.
The Royal Stewart tartan’s origins are tied to the royal dynasty of the Stewarts, who ruled Scotland from the late 14th century and later became the ruling family of England after the union of the crowns in 1603. The tartan itself is a vibrant red pattern with contrasting stripes of green, white, and yellow, and was traditionally worn by members of the House of Stewart and their supporters. Over time, it evolved into the personal tartan of the British monarch.
Although the Royal Stewart Tartan is the most famous royal tartan, there are several other tartans associated with the British Royal Family, including:
Balmoral Tartan: Designed by Prince Albert in 1853, the Balmoral Tartan is exclusive to the royal family. Unlike the Royal Stewart Tartan, which is widely available for public use, the Balmoral Tartan is strictly reserved for the royal family and select staff. It is primarily grey with fine checks of red and black.
Stewart Victoria Tartan: a colourful tartan with reds, greens and blues on a cream background.
Hunting Stewart Tartan: Muted shades of green and blue,the Hunting Stewart Tartan is often worn by people who don’t have a district or clan tartan of their own. The Queen regarded it as her “off duty” tartan.
Other Well Known Tartans
Black Watch Tartan
The Black Watch tartan is a dark and subtle pattern made up of greens and blues, named after the famous Highland regiment. It is another open tartan – which can be worn by anyone regardless of their heritage.
MacDonald Clan Tartan
The official MacDonald tartan is a combination of blues and green, with red and black lines. There are nine independent branches of Clan MacDonald who each have their own variations. There are thought to be around 40 variations of the MacDonald tartan.
Fraser Clan Tartan
The Fraser Clan has numerous branches – and tartan variations. The Modern Dress Fraser tartan is often worn at Scottish gatherings by those who trace (or claim to) their lineage back to the Fraser clan. It has a bright red base criss crossed by vertical and horizontal green stripes.
MacLeod Tartan
The two most common forms of MacLeod tartan are the Harris and the Lewis. Lewis is a bold yellow and black tartan known as the “Loud MacLeod” whilst the Harris is a more subdued pattern with greens and blues which is often used for hunting.
Campbell Clan Tartan
One of the oldest clans in Scotland, the Campbell family’s tartan has four tartans officially recognised by the Chief of the Clan. Of these, the Ancient tartan is probably best known. It is a dark and muted pattern primarily in shades of greens and blues. It can be worn by any member of the Campbell Clan irrespective of the branch of the family. The Black Watch Tartan is a darker shade of the Ancient Campbell.
Modern Dress Gordon Tartan
The Dress Gordon is designed for formal occasions. Its mix of green, blue, yellow and white is widely recognised.
The Tartan Industry Today
The tartan industry is experiencing a modern revival, thanks in part to increased interest in Scottish heritage, particularly among the Scottish diaspora in North America, Australia, and New Zealand. In the United States, for example, many Scottish-Americans trace their family’s clan tartan and wear it proudly at Highland games, weddings, and other cultural events. This global demand for authentic Scottish tartan has helped sustain and revitalise the industry.
Tartan Day
One of the most significant modern uses of tartan is in Tartan Day, celebrated annually on April 6th in countries like the United States and Canada. The day honours Scottish heritage and the contributions of Scottish immigrants to these nations, and tartan is proudly worn as a symbol of this shared cultural legacy.
Big Sky Campers Campervans for Hire
Scotland
Big Sky Campers are based just outside Edinburgh and offer a pick up service from local transport stops. We are on the route of the airport bus and are a short local train ride from Edinburgh Waverley or Haymarket stations. We are happy to suggest the best itinerary for your needs, or you can take a look at the itineraries we have on our website. All our campervans for hire come fully equipped with everything you will need for your road trip in Scotland. Everything is included in the price, including extra sets of bedding if requested.
Got a question? Give us a call.
+44 (0)7768 973804