The History of Traditional Weaving in Scotland: Tartan & Tweed
The most famous Scotland Textiles: Tartan & Tweed. Weaving was a vital part of Scotland’s economy for centuries. Weaving provided employment, supported rural communities and was a major part of Scotland’s economy until the industry fell into decline. However, the tartan and tweed industries clung on until their was a resurgence and now tartan and tweed are world famous and synonymous with Scottish heritage and craftsmanship.
Origins of Scotland’s Tartan & Tweed: Weaving in Rural Scotland
Weaving began as a cottage industry, with families working in their homes to produce cloth using locally sourced materials. Wool came from the sheep reared locally and then was spun and dyed with natural materials sourced from the surrounding environment. Plants like heather, blaeberries, and lichens provided the colours for the wool. As a result each piece of fabric was unique to the region where it was made.
The process of weaving was labour-intensive and done by hand. First carding, spinning and dyeing the wool before using simple looms to weave it into woven cloth. The resulting cloth was often durable and warm, ideal for Scotland’s harsh climate. Poor rural communities, particularly in the Scottish Highlands and Islands, relied on local weaving to make the clothes and blankets they needed.
The Emergence of Tartan
Tartan, now one of the most recognisable symbols of Scotland came out of these cottage industries. Historically, tartan referred to any woven cloth with a striped or checked pattern. Each tartan’s design, or “sett,” was a product of local weavers using specific dyes and materials available in their region. As a result, different areas developed their own distinctive tartans, which we now call “district tartans.”
By the 17th century, tartan had become more closely associated with clans. Highland clans wore the specific tartans produced in their area and wearing a clan tartan became a symbol of local family identity.
The association between tartan and Scottish identity became stronger during the Jacobite risings of the 18th century which aimed to restore the Stuart family to the British throne. Tartan-clad Highlanders played a prominent role in these uprisings. After the defeat of the Jacobites at the Battle of Culloden in 1746, the wearing of tartan and other Highland dress was banned by the British Government in an attempt to suppress the rebellious Highland culture. This ban lasted until 1782, but by then, tartan had already become a powerful symbol of Scottish resistance and heritage.
The Industrial Revolution and the Growth of the Textile Industry
With the Industrial Revolution of the late 18th and early 19th centuries machinery began to replace handlooms and the production of textiles became faster and more efficient. Factories were built, and weaving became a major industry in Scotland, particularly in the Lowlands, where towns like Hawick, Selkirk, and Galashiels in the Scottish Borders became centres of woollen manufacturing.
The introduction of the power loom revolutionised the industry. Where once weavers had produced a few metres of fabric a day by hand, they could now create far larger quantities with the help of mechanised looms. This development led to the mass production of tartan and tweed, which could now be exported across the world. The textile mills employed thousands of workers, and Scotland became a global leader in wool and textile production.
During this period, Scotland’s tartan industry also experienced a revival, thanks to the romanticisation of Highland culture. Writers like Sir Walter Scott celebrated Scotland’s rugged landscapes and traditional dress, leading to a resurgence of tartan’s popularity. King George IV’s visit to Scotland in 1822, organised by Scott, featured the King wearing a full Highland outfit, and from that moment, tartan became even more deeply embedded in Scottish identity. This event also popularised the idea of specific clan tartans, even though the association between particular tartans and clans had only been loosely established before then.
Tweed
Tweed was first produced in the 18th and 19th centuries by weavers in the Outer Hebrides, particularly on the Isle of Harris. Some believe the fabric was named after the River Tweed, which runs along the Scottish Borders, but there is no real evidence of this.
Tweed is known for its durability and warmth, making it ideal for outdoor clothing. It was originally a cloth worn by peasants, because of this durability, before becoming popular with landowners, gamekeepers and farmers. Like tartan, tweed was originally woven by hand using local wool and natural dyes. Unlike tartan, Harris Tweed is known for its earthy, natural tones, which reflect the landscape of the Hebrides: mossy greens, peat browns and soft blues and greys reflecting the tones of the northern sky and sea.
In the early 1800s, Highland landlords in Scotland were facing financial challenges and began selling or leasing their estates to members of the English aristocracy. Owning or renting a rural Scottish estate became a fashionable trend amongst the English upper classes, who used them as venues for social gatherings centered on outdoor activities like hunting, shooting, and fishing. Sturdy tweed jackets and coats were the garments of choice for their outdoor pursuits, offering durability and a degree of weather resistance.
Tweed became a status symbol during the Victorian era, particularly after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert popularised it by wearing it at their estate in Balmoral. Soon, tweed was in demand not only across the UK but also internationally. Today, Harris Tweed remains one of Scotland’s most famous exports, protected by the Harris Tweed Act of 1993, which ensures that it is still handwoven by islanders in their homes.
The Decline and Revival of Traditional Weaving
The story of Harris Tweed is one of resilience. In the 19th century, the remote island communities of the Outer Hebrides relied on weaving as a way to supplement their income, and each household would produce its own tweed for both local use and trade.
By the mid-20th century, Scotland’s textile industry was beginning to decline as cheaper imports, changing fashions and the introduction of synthetic fabrics led to the closure of many mills. Despite this decline, the traditional craft of weaving survived in rural areas like the Outer Hebrides, where the heritage of Harris Tweed production has been protected.
In recent years, there has been a renewed interest in the traditional craft of Scottish weaving as people look to buy more sustainable, locally-produced goods and fabrics such as Harris Tweed are now viewed as luxury products.
Where can you visit a working textile mill in Scotland?
While mass production techniques have replaced many traditional methods in modern times, in recent years, there has been a renewed interest in traditional weaving techniques, with many smaller mills and independent weavers reviving old methods. There are several places in Scotland where you can see traditional Scottish textiles being produced and buy authentic, local products.
The Scottish Borders
The Scottish Borders, particularly the towns of Hawick, Selkirk, and Galashiels, have long been the heart of Scotland’s textile industry. These towns are home to some of the oldest operating textile mills in the country, where you can see weaving and tartan production in action. Mills like Lochcarron of Scotland and Johnstons of Elgin are known worldwide for their high-quality fabrics and meticulous craftsmanship.
Lochcarron of Scotland’s Mill in Selkirk
As one of Scotland’s leading tartan manufacturers, Lochcarron has been producing high-quality tartans, tweeds, and woollen goods for over 70 years. The mill tour provides a fascinating insight into the weaving process and the history behind Scotland’s famous tartan. You will see the weaving process from start to finish from the factory floor, including how the threads are prepared, the dyeing process and finally how the threads are woven into cloth on the large mechanical looms. The mill produces over 700 different tartans which are on display in their visitor centre. Their shop offers a wide range of tartan goods, including scarves, blankets and accessories.
The Lochcarron Mill is open to visitors Monday to Friday from 10:00 AM until 4:00 PM, with guided tours running throughout the day but it’s advisable to check in advance for availability and book in advance during the peak season.
Lochcarron of Scotland Mill
Dunsdale Road,
Selkirk, TD7 5EB,
Scotland, UK
+44 (0)1750 726100
enquiries@lochcarron.com
Outer Hebrides
While the Scottish Borders will give you a look into large-scale mills and fabric production, the Outer Hebrides showcases the tradition of handloom weaving, particularly that of Harris Tweed. This world famous fabric is still handwoven by artisans in their homes across the islands of Lewis, Harris, Uist, and Barra, making it a truly unique Scottish product.
Today, the process of making Harris Tweed is much the same as it was in the past. The wool is sheared from local sheep, then washed, dyed and spun into yarn. Each piece of tweed is woven by hand on a loom in the weaver’s home. This is a legal requirement under the Harris Tweed Act of 1993 which protects the authenticity of the fabric. If you buy a Harris Tweed product you can be sure it has been made from 100% pure new wool and handwoven in the Outer Hebrides.
The Harris Tweed Authority
Visit the governing body that oversees the production and authenticity of Harris Tweed on the Isle of Lewis for a unique opportunity to learn about the history, tradition, and craftsmanship of the fabric. The centre’s exhibitions explain the history of the fabric, its cultural significance and the stringent standards that protect its authenticity
You will see examples of the stunning variety of colours and patterns created by local weavers, as well as videos demonstrating the entire production process. The Harris Tweed Authority doesn’t offer weaving demonstrations itself, but it provides valuable information about the island’s independent weavers. However, many weavers open their homes to visitors, giving you the chance to see the weaving process in person.
Contact the Harris Tweed Authority for the opening hours of the visitor centre at the time of your visit. Entry is free, though donations are welcome to support their ongoing work in preserving the Harris Tweed tradition.
Harris Tweed Authority
The Town Hall,
2 Cromwell Street,
Stornoway, Isle of Lewis, HS1 2DB,
Scotland, UK
+44 (0)1851 702269
info@harristweed.org
The Highlands
Knockando Woolmill, Speyside
A beautifully restored historic wool mill in the heart of Speyside which dates back to 1784. One of the few working wool mills still producing textiles using traditional methods with many of the original looms and machinery still in operation.
You’ll see the entire process of wool production from its start from raw fleece on original carding machines, spinning mules and looms using techniques passed down the generations. There is also a garden, shop and café. There are no guided tours but staff are on hand to answer any questions you have. Knockando Woolmill is open every day from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM between April to October. Entry to the mill and grounds is free but Donations to help with the upkeep of the mill are appreciated.
Knockando Woolmill
Knockando, Aberlour,
Moray, AB38 7RP,
Scotland, UK
+44 (0)1340 810345
info@knockandowoolmill.co.uk
Prickly Thistle, Evanton
This mill in Evanton in the Scottish Highlands is an innovative tartan mill with a focus on sustainability and traditional craftsmanship. Prickly Thistle combines ancient weaving techniques with a commitment to environmental and social responsibility.
Take a tour of the Prickly Thistle to watch the team in action as they create unique tartans on traditional Highland looms You will hear the story of how Clare, the owner, realised her vision to regenerate traditional Scottish textile weaving skills in the Highlands.
Whilst Clare had managed to get hold of some of the last remaining traditional looms in Scotland, she couldn’t find anyone with the skills to teach her how to use them. At this point, the traditional weaving skills needed were in danger of dying out. Luckily, she eventually found Martin who had worked in the last mill in this region before it closed its doors 30 years ago.
Today, the team are weaving tartan fabrics made from 100% merino wool, spun and dyed in Scotland and woven into tartan fabrics in their own Highland mill. The working mill is only open to visitors for tours, but they have a store in nearby Inverness.
The mill is open to visitors for tours during the summer months but tours must be booked in advance. There are also occasional special events and workshops.
For products, visit Prickly Thistle at their flagship store in Inverness or one of their regular pop ups. All the details on the Prickly Thistle website
+44 (0)1349 363301
hello@pricklythistlescotland.com
Big Sky Campers Campervans for Hire
Scotland
We hope you have found this article interesting and are inspired to visit some of the places we have featured. If you are looking for a campervan to hire to see more of Scotland, please take a look at our VWs. Our top quality campervans for hire come fully equipped with everything you will need for your road trip in Scotland. Everything is included in the price, including extra sets of bedding if requested.
Got a question? Give us a call.
+44 (0)7768 973804













Visit Scotland/Kenny Lam
Holyrood Distillery